The prettier the garden, the dirtier the hands of the gardener.
— B.E. Barnes, Put in Work. Tend Yourself.
Brambles are a tempting, but dangerous business. I am, if not anything else, particularly proficient at avoiding the place where the thumb might tack. An adapted state of survival, I might say, and also—it wasn’t always this way. The clumps of dark fruit, the color of bliss, or bruises, sit like gleaming jewels in their forbidden cage. The passage of time is evidently marked on the ink, and all of it up for offer—take only what you can hold. I take the lot.
Blackberries are good that way—their worth is found in the hands of the one who picks them. Even the soured can be sweet. But never turn those parts to the shade, where they deepen, then go on to thrive—face them towards the light. “A wound about to heal opens like an eyelid” a rehearsed line, but one I hear You repeat.
See, foraging isn’t a lone activity. Amongst the thorns, there are others that seek out the same promise—acts of desire done in the day, or sometimes, the dark. The well-adjusted use gloves. The absence of fruit makes for a delicious thought. What made it to the table, or rather, what didn’t. As a child, the berries I picked were eaten on the spot—bright, bursting, and sun-kissed. As an adult, I learned restraint, more, that the measure of love is often loss, and that with sugar, I could soothe any sting.
BLACKBERRY BRIOCHE
This isn’t really cake, but it’s not bread, either. The brioche is rich, overly so, and filled with sticky-stewed blackberries and custard. There’s also a Mezcal syrup for soaking, which creates this almost Baba-meets-Tropézienne-esque tone. A slice exceeds itself, naturally, and does require a bit of posturing to put together. All of the components can be prepared in advance, then baked and assembled, when demanded. Sunset calls for it.
For the brioche (from Wild Sweetness by Thalia Ho (Harper Design, 2021)
1/3 cup + 4 teaspoons (100 ml) whole milk, 4 ¼ teaspoons (14 g) instant dried yeast, 4 1/3 cups + 1 tablespoon (550 g) all-purpose flour, 1/3 cup (70 g) granulated sugar, 2 teaspoons salt, finely grated zest from ½ a lemon, 6 large eggs, 1 cup (2 sticks; 230 g) unsalted butter, (very soft at room temperature)
1 large egg lightly whisked with 1 teaspoon of whole milk (for brushing), a small handful of granulated sugar (for finishing)
For the custard
1 ½ cups (360 ml) whole milk, 1 vanilla pod, 4 large egg yolks, 1/3 cup (70 g) granulated sugar, ¼ cup (32 g) cornstarch, ¼ cup (60 g) unsalted butter (cubed and soft at room temperature), ¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream
For the blackberries
1 ¼ cups (180 g) fresh blackberries, ¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar, juice from ½ a lemon, a drop or two of culinary-grade violet extract (optional)
For the syrup
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar, juice from ½ a lemon, 2 tablespoons Mezcal (optional)
First, make the brioche dough. Heat the milk in a small saucepan until it’s lukewarm. Add into the bowl of a stand mixer that’s fitted with the dough hook attachment, along with the yeast, flour, sugar, salt, and zest. Crack in the eggs. Mix it all on medium-low speed just to combine, then raise the speed slightly, and knead until rough and shaggy. Add the butter a tablespoon at a time, waiting until fully blended before in adding the next. Again, raise the speed, continue to knead until smooth and velvety—6 to 7 more minutes. With your hand, rotor in a stretching and pulling motion to bring the dough together, then transfer it into a lightly greased large bowl. Cover, and leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 ½ to 2 hours, depending. Once risen, knock the dough down to deflate, then re-cover. Leave to rest in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours, or overnight.
Next, make the custard. Pour the milk into a medium-sized saucepan. Split open the vanilla bean with the tip of a sharp knife, and scrape out the seeds, adding them into the milk along with the pod. Bring to a simmer over gentle heat. Meanwhile, in a heatproof bowl, whisk together the yolks, sugar, and cornstarch. When the milk is at temperature, slowly stream it into the yolks, whisking well to acclimatize and combine. Transfer back into the saucepan. Continue to heat, whisking constantly, until smooth, thick, and glossy. Slide off from the heat, then whisk in the butter, a piece at a time. Scrape into a bowl, discarding the pod. Cover the surface tight with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until completely cold.
When you’re ready to bake, line a sheet with non-stick parchment paper, and set a 9-inch (23-cm) cake ring onto it. Lightly grease the sides, and then collar it. Tip the dough out and onto a lightly floured work surface. Pat it into a rough circle that’s near to the same size as the ring, or about 1 ¼-inches (3-cm) thick. Roll to neaten and smooth, then fit into the ring, trimming if necessary. Cover, and again, leave to rise in a warm spot, but this time until just under doubled in size—no more than 1 ½ hours.
While it rises, make the blackberries. Tip the fruit and sugar into a medium-sized saucepan, then add the lemon juice, and violet extract, if using. Position over gentle heat, and bring to a simmer, stirring often, until the softened, and slumped. The juices should be thick, sticky, and syrup-like. Transfer into a heatproof bowl, and leave on the counter to cool completely.
Next, make the syrup. Put the sugar, lemon juice, and 1/3 cup (80 ml) of water into a small saucepan. Bring to the boil over medium heat, stirring often to help dissolve the granules, then remove, and stir through the Mezcal, if using. Set aside for assembly.
Adjust a rack to the middle of the oven, then pre-heat it to 350ºF (180ºC). Brush the top of the dough lightly with the egg wash, and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden. A skewer inserted should come out clean. Transfer to a wire rack, and cool for a few minutes or so, before unmolding. Once cool, slice the brioche horizontally with a sharp serrated knife—you’ll want the bottom piece to be heavier than the top, like a 2/3rd vs. 1/3rd situation.
To fill, remove the custard from the refrigerator, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon to loosen then smooth any lumps. Whip the cream to firm peaks. Fold it into the custard until light, silky, and streak-free. Keep cold until needed.
To assemble, set the bottom, heavier, brioche onto a serving plate. Drench it well with syrup, then with the assistance of a sharp knife and spoon, carve out a cavity in the center—leaving a few inches from the edge as a border, and without hollowing all the way down to the base. Spoon in the blackberries, then smooth over the custard with a large palette knife. Brush the cut-side of the remaining brioche with syrup. Position it over the top of the cake, applying a light amount of pressure to adhere. Chill until slightly firmed, at least an hour.
Serve slices thickly cut, cold, or close it, with fresh blackberries on the side. This will keep well for 2 to 3 days, covered, in the refrigerator.
