Excuse me for being so intellectual. I know you would prefer something nice and feminine and affectionate.
—Zelda Fitzgerald, Dear Scott, Dearest Zelda: The Love Letters of F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald
I don’t write to resume an argument, instead, to end it. The rules of this game denote that two checkmates cannot occur at once, though as you’d know, often, these things are destined to be broken. Trite, but nonetheless true—I am not in the business of granting concessions.
You see, taste, like feeling, can lapse. Hinting at some sort of moral confliction can make it seem more interesting, or delicious, but to admit to it, guilt, also implies that once there was innocence, a state of sublimity I am unsure is bestowed on all.
The pastry in this tart is as tender as a palsy phrase that falls apart to the touch. The roasted strawberries are in true fanciful form—sticky and stained—you can become quite Pollock-y with their placement (but don’t let that get to the head). The blood-red juxtaposed against the pure-white, reflective of inside and out. I implore you to see a mouthful less of a deceit, more as a dream—the same story, just told different.
“The Queen turned crimson with fury, and, after glaring at her for a moment like a wild beast, began screaming, “Off with her head! Off—”
SLOW-ROASTED STRAWBERRY TART
For the crust
½ cup + 1 tablespoon (130 g) unsalted butter (soft at room temperature), 2/3 cup (80 g) confectioners’ sugar, 2 large egg yolks, 2 tablespoons ground almonds, ¼ teaspoon salt, 1 ½ cups (190 g) all-purpose flour, 1 large egg white (lightly whisked for the wash)
In the bowl of a stand mixer that’s fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter for a minute or so on medium speed, until smooth and malleable. Pause to scrape down the bowl, then add in the confectioners’ sugar. Beat until light and fluffy, then beat in the egg yolks, followed by the almonds, and salt. Lower the speed, and tip in the flour. Beat until the soft dough has clumped together. Scrape onto a sheet of plastic wrap, then cover, and pat into a disc. Chill in the refrigerator for at least two hours—or up to a day.
When you’re ready to bake, position a 9-inch (23-cm) tart tin with a removeable base onto a baking sheet. Alternatively, you can use 4 x 4-inch (10-cm) tins for individual options.
Un-wrap the chilled dough. Between two lightly floured sheets of non-stick parchment paper, roll it into a circle that’s roughly about 1/8-inch (.3-cm) thick, or a few inches larger than the tin you’re using. Adjust as necessary to prevent cracking. Carefully lift and fit the dough into the tin, patching up any holes or tears, then trim off the excess overhang. Freeze, while the oven pre-heats to 375ºF (190ºC).
Line the par-frozen crust with aluminum foil, then fill it to the brim with ceramic weights or dried beans. Bake for 20 minutes, then remove, and cool slightly. Remove the weights and foil. Prick the base a few times over with a fork, then brush thinly with egg white. Bake for 7 to 10 more minutes, until golden brown all-over. Transfer to a wire rack, and cool completely before filling.
For the strawberries
400 g (about 3 cups) strawberries, 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon (85 g) granulated sugar, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, juice from an orange
Adjust a rack to the middle of the oven, then pre-heat it to 250ºF (120ºC). Rinse, dry, and hull the strawberries—halving any overly large ones, and leaving the little-ish, whole. Place into a ceramic roasting dish that’s wide enough to hold all of the fruit in an even layer, then sprinkle over the sugar, balsamic, and orange juice. Toss to coat.
Roast, slowly, for 2 to 3 hours, basting intermittently to ensure even cooking. The berries should be sticky, slumped, and swarmed in syrup when done. Cool to room temperature, then chill until needed for assembly.
For the cream
1 ¼ cups (300 ml) heavy cream, 2 tablespoons crème fraîche or natural yoghurt, 1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar, seeds from 1 vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Put the cream, crème fraîche or yoghurt, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla into the bowl of a stand mixer that’s fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip to soft but stable peaks.
Position the crust onto a serving plate. Spoon in the whipped cream, smoothing it out in thick swoops and swirls. Adorn with roasted strawberries—you won’t need to use all of them, but likely you’ll want to—they’re that good. Serve the tart cold, or close to it. It will keep for a day or so, covered, in the refrigerator.